Storage Controller

I have a Ultra/66 PCI to IDE adapter developed by Promise technologies. I am trying to install it on my system and would like to have a boot-able HD connected to it. I think it might be a little more difficult than just installing a driver to my OS since it would have to boot an OS separate from the one the HD. Would this require some mod to my bios to be able to boot from a pci slot?

As per the specs: “Features LBA and Extended Interrupt13h drive installation in controller onboard BIOS”. It will work if your system can detect it. Most 10-12 years old systems should be able to boot from it (10-12 years old or more).

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Cache or SATA III 6GB/S Connections, What is more Important?

Hello, i am creating new PC i am confuse with hard drive selection i have two option to chose from please help me which is better ?

(1) from WD with SATA III with 16 mb cache
(2) from wd with SATA II with 32mb cache

below is my configuration
Intel core i5 2320
Intel DZ68DB mother board
16gb corsair DDR3 1333
ASUS DVD writer

Cache is more important than SATA connection with regards to HDDs.

HDDs can be SATA III “compatible”, not SATA III “capable”.
A single HDD cannot spin fast enough to saturate a SATA II port, let alone a SATA III port.

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HDD to HDD Internal Transfer Rates

Only recently though, have I seen this problem really metastasize; reduced transfer rates during multiple HDD to HDD file transfers.

First of all, I understand that sending files “single-stream” from one HDD to another in a single transfer allows for the most direct Read/Write instance, and thus the fastest rates, and that queuing multiple transfers slows that down because the drives are having to do a lot more platter skating, but what I have a hard time understanding is where is ALL that bandwidth overhead going?

For instance, I may be running a HDD to HDD transfer and hitting 130M/s, but when I cue another transfer, they may both settle to less than 40M/s, which leaves a transfer rate discrepancy of more than 40M/s just -gone-. I couldn’t seriously be losing this just to seek times across platters? Could I?

Even on some “single stream” transfers, data is still spread across multiple platters, and I don’t see a degradation in speed.

Another example is when running transfers between four completely unrelated drives.

I may be running transfers between drive A to drive B, one drive on channel 1 and the other on channel 2, and when I run a transfer from drive C to drive D (Say on channel 3 and channel 1, respectively) the -entire- list of transfers bottoms out in speed, with a large discrepancy of missing bandwidth once they all settle down into their anemic rates.

I thought this could be a case of buffer under-run, but across the entire system?

All of my drives are SATAII or better, and all have 32MB or better, all running on 7200RPMs.

Does anyone know what’s going on here? Am I missing something?

I think your forgetting your mainboard has to process this info too. your south bridge has to deal with data from the HDD’s and could be slowing the bottleneck slowing the process.

when making 2 transferes between 2 HDD’s the heads have more work to do and their 2 seperate jobs so they conflict for resources. when you make a single transfere, the data streams smoothly, start to finish and the heads dont need to jump around wrighting data. when making 2 transferes, on one disk the south bridge must decide what the HDD does for each job and the hdd has to deal with 2 sets of instructions. theoretically 2 jobs should take half the wright speed each but when you take into account the processing needed and the ineficiancy of the heads jumping back and forth working 2 jobs you loose wright speed.

Now, making 2 transfere’s on 4 disks. i suspect that is more your south bridge bottlenecking the large volume of data being streamed to it combined with the time it takes to process it all and keep running a OS.

basically your computer is only as fast as the slowest needed part for any given action.

just for good messure, when making 2 transfere’s with 4 HDD’s, monitor your CPU and RAM usage to eliminated the possability of them causing the slow downs.

also defrag you HDD’s, your drives will jump back and forth filling in blank space left behind from deleted files or apps, this causes delays as the heads need to move about more.

im no expert but thats the basic idea behind it. hope that answers your question or atleast helps you get a better grasp on what is involved in the process.

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Hard Drive Wipe Tool: Active KillDisk

Anyone know of any program that will completely wipe a hard drive and make files unrecoverable? I have 3 comp from work I have to do this to, and need some info on a good program to do it with. Thanks

Active@ KillDisk: Powerful and compact software that allows you to destroy all data on hard disks, USB drives and floppy disks completely, excluding any possibility of future recovery of deleted files and folders. It’s a hard drive and partition eraser utility.

killdisk

Hard Drive Wipe Tool: Active KillDisk

Active@ KillDisk Key Features:

  • Support for wiping Apple HFS+ & Linux Ext2/Ext3/Ext4;
  • New! Erasing/Wiping Certificate can be saved as PDF;
  • Supports 17 security standards;
  • Detects and displays information about all partitions, hard disks and floppy drives currently connected to your computer;
  • Wipes out all floppies and hard disk drives completely by secure overwriting data on physical level using [One Pass Zeros] data destruction method;
  • Erases partitions, logical drives and even not used disk space;
  • Erasing report is created and can be saved as a file;
  • File systems (FAT, FAT32, NTFS, etc) on the drive do not matter, detected physical drive is erased using low-level disk access

How to Use KillDisk Hard Drive Eraser:

1: Create a bootable floppy disk or a CD (or both) that has system troubleshooting programs, as well as the boot disk version of KillDisk before doing any permanent deletion. Images for floppies and CDs are available on KillDisk’s website.

2: Insert your bootable disk and restart your computer. When the DOS prompt appears type “killdisk.”

3: Select the drive you wish to erase or wipe. Information for the selected drive is available on the right side of the screen. More information is available by pushing “Ctrl + S,” which shows the disk sectors or “Enter,” which shows the file system.

4: Press “F10” to permanently and irrevocably erase all information on the selected drive.

5: Push “F9” to clean all information outside of the current file system. This means that the files on the computer remain unchanged but older, often deleted, files are gone forever.

6: Confirm your choice. Both methods require you to press their button again (either F10 or F9), then enter a supplied command word before it begins.

7: Wait while the program executes the erase or wipe. Once it begins, you can stop the process by pressing “Esc,” but any erased data is gone.

Active@ KillDisk Customer Review:

This does exactly what I need it to do – COMPLETELY ERASE MY HARD DRIVE. This is great for fresh installs or re-deployments of machines. Also works great if you wish to sell/recycle your hard drive to remove all traces of information. Yes, the paid version allows for more intrusive/destructive measures.

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How to install a hard drive

I just installed a SSD w/ windows 7 and I scraped a hard drive from my old computer and removed partitions and it works perfectly because windows could see it when It asked where I wanted to download windows to.

The problem now is that I have a 500gb hard drive plugged in that I can see in my bios set up. But I cannot see it or save any information on it when I am in windows. Any one have any ideas? Really appreciate any help, thanks so much in advance!

Go to disc management in windows and format the drive for NTFS. It will then be functionable.

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Install Old Boot Hard Drive in New Computer

I have a computer running Vista, with a single hard drive (multiple partitions, one with the operating system, the others for applications, data, etc.). I just bought a new computer, and am going to install Windows 7 on it.

I want to put the OLD drive in the new computer so I can just copy all my files and data over.

In the old days with the IDE drives… if memory serves… I’d have to mess with some jumpers so it’d know the OLD drive was no longer the master drive and to boot off the new Windows7 drive. Do I have to do anything fancy like that when I stick the old drive in the new computer so it knows not to boot off that drive, and to boot off the new Windows 7 drive? If so, what do I do?

install sata hard drive

Install Old SATA Boot Drive

IF your “old” HDD is a SATA unit, there are NO jumpers to adjust. (In fact, although some do have a jumper on them, you should NOT change it unless you know what you’re doing!) A SATA port only allows the connection of ONE unit to it, so there is no need to give its connected device some unique identity. Just plug the old HDD into any available SATA port, and connect power to it also. Just to be sure, when you reboot go into BIOS Setup and check that the HDD is showing up properly on the correct SATA port. Then check where the Boot Priority is set and make sure the old HDD is NOT one of the devices available as a boot device.

Now, IF your “old” HDD is an IDE unit that you must connect to an IDE port on the mobo, then you DO have to set its jumper correctly. ANY IDE port MUST have a Master device on it to be used, and MAY have a Slave device additionally. So if this old HDD is the ONLY drive on an IDE port, it MUST have its jumper set to Master (or to Master with no Slave present, if that is a different option). Then it should be plugged into the END connector on the ribbon cable for it. On the other hand, if this is an IDE HDD and you’re plugging it into an IDE port as the second device on the ribbon cable (on the middle connector), make sure its jumper is set to Slave. BUT in this latter case, IF the first device already on the cable has its jumper set to “CS” (for Cable Select), and not to Master, then the second drive on the cable also must be set to “CS”.

“Master” and “Slave” are settings of jumpers that are related solely to the drive’s function on one IDE port. There is no such thing as a “Master Drive” of the whole machine. You already have a Boot Drive in your machine, and you are just installing a second unit that will be used as a storage device, but NOT as a Boot Drive.

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Hard Drive Compatible

I’m reinstating a very old computer I once used back in the days as use for a spare computer and I’m in need of a new hard drive.

I was wondering if all SATA hard drives are compatible with my computer since I consider myself barely computer savvy.

MB: GIGABYTE GA-M61PME-S2P AM2+/AM2 NVIDIA GeForce 6100 Micro ATX AMD Motherboard

PSU: APEVIA WIN-500XSPX 500W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply

I’m also wondering if my Nvidia Geforce GT 220 would work on this too since I just upgrade to another GPU on my main computer.

I don’t need those 250+ GB hard drives, just wondering if I can just go around and buy a cheap one just to make this computer functional.

I also have the OS CD available,both xp,visa and 7.(not pirated,they’re legal versions)

If I get a answer soon, I’m looking to buy this:

NIB HP 80GB SATA HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200 rpm
Brand new in factory wrap HP Seagate Barracuda 80GB SATA HDD. These drives are compatible with many HP servers including the Proliant ML110. This item is guaranteed not DOA and has never been installed in a server. These were spare drives and would be perfect for increasing the storage capacity in your HP server.

Any advice, or recommendations are welcomed. Have a nice day.

Your motherboard has SATA 3GB and PCIe X16 slot so any SATA HDD should work and your GT220 should work just as well. Your PSU although not the best will drive this fine.

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SATA Hot Swap Drive Bay Stopped Working

A few months back my boot drive died on me. I got another drive, reinstalled XP and off I went again. Well, I have a SATA hot swap drive bay. Before the crash it worked fine. I don’t remember ever installing any driver or utility for it when I first installed it (when I originally built the system). Well, it stopped working, kind of. If I shut down XP, swap the drive and turn the system back on it will see the different drive. So it swaps, just not hotly. So, what might be going on? I did not modify anything in my BIOS. The only thing different in my setup is having to manually download the XP updates since MS has stopped it’s support. I am at a loss.

The problem is not the dock but the SATA controller it’s connected to. Check for newer drivers for it.

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SATA Cables

A hard drive (3.0 Gb/s) I have recently bought just came, without a SATA cable. I have a 6.0 Gb/s capable SATA cable sitting around. Are these 6.0 Gb/s cables backwards compatible? If I use it, would I have to plug it into the 6.0 enabled port on the mobo or can I just use the normal SATA ports?

satacables

SATA Cables

They are backwards compatible. And you can plug it into any SATA port you like.

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Replace Primary Master Hard Disk with Primary Slave

I have a desktop computer with following specs :
2.93 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo
Board: ASUSTeK P5QPL-AM Rev X.0x
266 megahertz
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 0408
Intel(R) ICH7 Family Ultra ATA Storage Controllers – 27DF
Intel(R) N10/ICH7 Family Serial ATA Storage Controller – 27C0
Primary IDE Channel [Controller] (2x)
Secondary IDE Channel [Controller] (2x)

I recently purchased a 160 gig HD and used it as the Slave disk. I formatted it and installed Windows XP while booting from and using the windows XP on the old disk. Then I removed the primary master (Old HD) and used its power and data connectors on the new HD. However, the computer does not boot and asks for a boot media.

If I read your tale correctly, you now have only ONE IDE HDD connected to the Primary IDE port. Any IDE port MUST have a Master device, and MAY have a second device as Slave. There are two options for designating the single HDD as the port’s Master. The most straightforward is to set the jumpers on it to the Master position. Use the diagram on this drive to guide you, NOT the diagram from another drive. Then connect this drive to the END connector on the ribbon cable if at all possible.

The other option is to set the drive’s jumpers to CS (for Cable Select) and then the drive MUST be on the END connector in order to serve as Master.

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